The mouse you use will not necessarily make you a better player, but choosing a mouse that functions properly will give you the competitive edge as your hand eye coordination improves. I will be going over the mice that are commonly used by professionals FPS players, and the pros and cons of each. I have owned the 1.1, 3.0, Deathadder 3G, Deathadder 3.5G, Logitech MX518, G5, and G500 first hand. Make sure you shop around before buying; you can get really nice deals online. Even among the elite mice that professionals use, each have their pros and cons. I will list them so that you can decide which is best for you. Although I own a variety of good mice and mouse pads, I use is the IMO 1.1 overclocked to 500 hz with Hyper Glide mouse feet on a Pure Track Talent mouse pad.
You will notice a pattern with gaming mice that professionals use: almost all of them are old mice and all of them use optical sensor technology instead of laser technology. This is because new laser mice suck. Don't get caught up in the DPI marketing crap; the majority of pros play 400 at dpi. It's all you need in an FPS game. And contrary to popular belief. mouse DPI doesn't reflect accuracy. Most FPS professionals play on incredibly low sensitivities. For Counter Strike, the average distance for a 180 degree turn by a top players is between 12-16 inches. For faster games such as Quake 3, it's around 8-12 inches for a 180 degree turn by a top player. This is why big mouse pads are a necessity, and why I have included two popular mouse pads pros use at the end of this review. I have used both first hand.
Terms you need to know:
Mouse Correction: A technique most mice use to interpolate your movement in order to force straight lines. This is not good for FPS gaming.
Lift Distance: How far the mouse continues to track when you lift it vertically off your mouse pad. You want minimal lift distance because at the sensitivities most good players use, you will constantly be lifting up your mouse after swiping across your mouse pad with your arm to turn around.
DPI: A marketing concept used by mice companies that is a complete gimmick. All it does is reflect speed. It does not reflect accuracy; that is mouse FPS and mouse refresh rate.
Frames per second: The amount of "snap shots" the optical sensor takes per second. This isn't marketed much, so don't worry about trying to find a mouse with a high FPS count.
USB Refresh Rate / Mouse Polling Rate: How many times per second your mouse talks with your computer. USB defaults to 125hz, which is approximately ever 8ms. USB is capable of up to 1000hz, or 1ms. New mice have on board memory that command your computer to talk to the mouse at 500hz or 1000hz, which you can change in the driver settings. Unfortunately, all new mice except for the old Deathadder suck, so most pros force their computer to communicate with their mouse at a high hz rate manually. I will explain how to do this later on. Almost all mice have drastic increases in performance from increasing the USB refresh rate.
Calculating your real sensitivity
Use the following formula so you can keep your sensitivity consistent even if you switch DPI:
[in game sensitivity] * [DPI] * [windows mouse sensitivity value] = your real sensitivity value
Use this formula accordingly so you can maintain the same sensitivity even if you switch hardware. If you are playing Quake Live, your Windows Mouse Sensitivity does not effect your real sensitivity.
note: I do not know the value ratio between this outputted sensitivity value and the amount of inches it takes for a 180 degree turn. Also, the [windows mouse sensitivity value] does not mean you multiply by the literal notch your setting is on. If you are on the 6th notch in the Windows setting (default), do not multiply by "6". Use the following corresponding values:
"6" = 1
"5"= .75
"4"= .5
"3" = .25
I don't know 1, 2 and 7-11. You can probably find it by searching. I wouldn't recommend going higher than 6 because I believe you will lose accuracy by having Windows multiply your mouse readings by a value higher than 1. Many claim adjusting your windows sensitivity between 3 and 6 is bad and results in inconsistency. I think they are full of crap; almost every CS pro who uses the Deathadder 3G uses it with the windows sensitivity value of "3".

Mouse Feet
Most of the mice, excluding the Deathadder, ship with mouse feet that aren't top of the line Teflon. This means it will not be incredibly slick. There is nothing wrong with the mouse feet that ship with any of these mice; most use them as is. It comes down to preference. If you like incredibly slick glide when moving your mice, get mouse feet from this company:
http://www.hyperglide.net/
I personally use these mouse feet. Take note that new versions of the MX518 have G5 feet if you plan on ordering these for your MX518. They are easy to put on; simply remove the current mouse feet and replace with these. You can search around for tutorials if you are having a hard time doing this.
Windows Acceleration Fix
Windows has acceleration by default. You want acceleration disabled in Windows so that there is a consistency between the distance you move your mouse, and the distance you move in game, regardless of how fast you are moving your mouse. Acceleration will make muscle memory for flick shooting opponents impossible. Don't use it.
This disables Windows mouse acceleration: http://www.techpower..._Mouse_Fix.html. This works for Windows 7 and Vista, too.
If you are playing through Steam, you can do this as an alternative:

Interesting Fatal1ty blog regarding gaming sensitivity:
http://news.fatal1ty...se-sensitivity/
Note: If you want to play with mouse acceleration in Quake, do NOT disregard the windows mouse acceleration fix. You don't want that acceleration; you want it turned off. The acceleration Fatal1ty is referring to are settings within the game that you can tweak just like your sensitivity.





























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